Art Craft

Through the Work of More than 60 Artists, ‘The Golden Thread’ Traces the Rise of Textiles in Contemporary Art

May 7, 2024

Kate Mothes

Amanda Phingbodhipakkiya, “Rest is a Place for Wild Things” (2024), cotton, silk, polyester, reclaimed textile, thread, site-specific installation, dimensions variable. Photo by Jih-E Peng. All images © the artists, courtesy of BravinLee, shared with permission

In the historic South Street Seaport area of Manhattan, a former 18th-century mercantile warehouse sets the scene for a monumental exhibition of contemporary textile art. The Golden Thread: A Fiber Art Show, presented by BravinLee, gathers more than 100 artworks by 61 artists into the cavernous space, including ten site-specific installations that riff on the building’s history, character, and original machinery.

Metaphorically, the golden thread is a feature or concept that is present in all parts of something, holding everything together and imbuing it with value. This notion provides the framework for an ambitious presentation of dozens of pieces by artists who utilize or incorporate fiber into their work, formed around questions like, “How are textiles enmeshed with power?” or, “How can the medium’s previously outcast status at once be challenged and reclaimed?”

Tracing its roots back tens of thousands of years, fiber has played an intrinsic role in human society, used in everything from garments to homewares to industrial equipment. Historically defined as a craft, trade, or hobby, fiber encompasses a vast range of practices, from knitting and embroidery to weaving, quilting, and carpet design. During the past century, textiles and their processes have increasingly found their way into fine art, tying contemporary practices to timeless traditions.

If you’re a regular reader of Colossal, you’ll recognize works by Melissa Webb, April Bey, Jean Shin, Wangechi Mutu, Sarah Zapata, and more. The Golden Thread continues through May 19, with variable hours. If you’re in New York, visit BravinLee’s website for more information and opening times.

 

April Bey, “If You Hate Your Enemies, Your Enemies Shine” (2023), jacquard woven textiles, with hand-sewn fabric and sequins, 76 x 54 inches

Rachel B. Bayes, “Pixel Dreamin’” (2024), monofilament thread, polycarbonate Roscolux filters, shimmer poly-organza, and marine vinyl binding, 92 x 108 x 36 inches

Jean Shin, “S.O.S.3,” “S.O.S. 6,” and “S.O.S 7” (2020-2022), salvaged hemlock branches from Olana State Historic Site, leather remnants, and upholstery tacks, 12 x 13 x 83; 11½ x 13 x 85; and 11 x 12½ x 82½ inches

Melissa Webb, “Manifestoon” (2024), hand-dyed and manipulated vintage cotton textiles, site-responsive installation, dimensions variable

Jeila Gueramian, “It Reminds Me of You” (2024), mixed media, site-specific, dimensions variable

Erin LeAnn Mitchell, “Equally Yoked” (2024), acrylic, fabric, buttons, yarns and loop hair rollers, 60 x 40 inches

Sarah Zapata, “A Famine of Hearing (Green Ruins 1-4)” (2019), natural and synthetic fiber, wood, dimensions variable

 

 

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Art

Nicolas V. Sanchez Captures Ancestral Stories and Memories in Meticulously Detailed Equine Portraits

May 7, 2024

Kate Mothes

a hyperrealistic ballpoint pen drawing of a brown horse's head

“Diffusion,” color ballpoint pen, 8 x 10 inches. All images © Nicolas V. Sanchez, shared with permission

When Nicolas V. Sanchez’s dad was young, he was partially raised by his grandfather in Mexico while his own father established roots in Michigan. “My great grandfather bred show horses for festivals and performances, and my dad told me about a specific horse in particular that did not meet my great grandfather’s ‘standard’ for showing,” Sanchez tells Colossal. “He gave that horse to my dad as a childhood pet.”

This particular equine was a skinny, scraggly white horse that was blind in one eye, and Sanchez’s father named him Ojo de Vidrio, or “glass eye.” The artist (previously) was struck by this story and the connection to his relatives and ancestral traditions. He says:

When I decided to include Ojo de Vidrio in my work, my intention was not to paint a breathing, living horse. I don’t know this horse firsthand. The texture of the horse are like the textured, colorful walls in Mexico ,with bright colors peeking through. Not fur. This horse is an emblem, serving as a vessel that carries with it my family history from a different place and time.

Sanchez has long been fascinated by stories and memories of his heritage in Mexico, and in an ongoing series of sketchbook titled Herencia, or “inheritance,” he calls on memories and narratives that connect his past to the present. Meticulously detailed, realistic renderings emerge from ballpoint pen, and recently he has scaled up considerably to translate some horse portraits into life-size oil paintings.

Ojo de Vidrio’s story led Sanchez into the realm of equine culture and the nuances of traditional portraiture. Paralleling the standards for which horses are bred, the artist became more and more interested in visually capturing the subtleties of how the animals stands, its muscle movement, the degree to which it holds up its head, or the way it faces the viewer— “all details and considerations that go into the composition of a life-size, fully depicted horse painting,” he says.

Sanchez was recently part of a two-person exhibition at Galerie Mokum, which featured his ballpoint pen drawings alongside friend and fellow artist Dina Brodsky. This September, he will present a solo booth of new work at Art on Paper in New York City, and his next major exhibition in the U.S. will be with Trimper Gallery in Greenwich, Connecticut. See more on his website, and follow updates on Instagram.

 

a realistic oil painting of a white horse turning away from a stable door

“Flash 1,” oil on canvas, 24 x 30 inches

a ballpoint pen drawing of a ghostly white horse on a black background in a small sketchbook

From “Herencia books,” color ballpoint pen

a realistic oil painting of a horse's head in profile

“Axle,” oil on canvas, 14 x 18 inches

a ballpoint pen drawing of three men and a dog walking down a dirt road in an agricultural setting, in a small sketchbook

From “Herencia books,” color ballpoint pen

a realistic large-scale oil portrait of a brown horse

“Chicago” (2023), oil on canvas, 6 x 8 feet

a ballpoint pen drawing of a group of horses on a black background in a small sketchbook

From “Herencia books,” color ballpoint pen

a ballpoint pen drawing of a ghostly white horse in a dark stable in a small sketchbook

From “Herencia books,” color ballpoint pen

a ballpoint pen drawing of a ghostly white horse on a black background

“Tiempo,” color ballpoint pen, 3.5 x 5 inches

a ballpoint pen drawing of a ghostly white horse in a stable, in a small sketchbook

 

 



Craft Design

This Thriving Terra Cotta Workshop Gets an Impressive Brick Makeover in Rural Vietnam

May 7, 2024

Kate Mothes

a cylindrical brick structure in a courtyard surrounding an old kiln

All images © Tropical Space

In the village of Dien Phuong in the Quang Nam Province of Vietnam, a thriving workshop received a striking expansion with the help of Ho Chi Minh City-based architects Tropical Space. In 2016, the design firm conceived of a cubic studio for local artist Le Duc Ha in the form of an airy, seven-square-meter brick structure situated among geometric gardens on the bank of Thu Bon River.

Last year, Tropical Studio completed the stunning Terra Cotta Workshop, a major addition to the complex that includes zones for the craftspeople to work and for the public to engage with different activities. A courtyard connects the spaces and holds an enormous cylinder around a brick kiln, which is original to the building previously occupying the site. One long exterior wall, which doubles as an extensive shelf, displays numerous terracotta pieces produced in-house.

Baked brick is a popular and cost-effective material in Vietnam because it is sustainable, locally produced, and steeped in tradition. Due to the country’s balmy climate, brick provides an appealing facade while also allowing for natural ventilation and light openings, especially when arranged in lattice patterns. Terra Cotta Workshop utilizes a series of interconnected walls to create passageways and manage airflow and shade, simultaneously dividing and connecting various spaces.

Explore more projects on the studio’s website.

 

an oblique aerial view of a brick building housing a terra cotta workshop

two images side-by-side of interior spaces in a contemporary brick building housing a terra cotta workshop

a view of a contemporary low-roofed building behind some palm trees and a garden

a view down open-air corridors of a terra cotta workshops showing tables and shelves full of pots and works in progress

two side-by-side images of the interior of a terra cotta workshop building made of lattice-patterned brick walls

people walk through the courtyard of a contemporary brick building

an aerial view of a terra cotta workshop and studio in Vietnam surrounded by greenery

the inside of the kiln with scaffolding and an open top

the front of a contemporary brick building with low, light-colored roofing, with an exterior wall that doubles as a shelf for numerous terra cotta pots

 

 



Art

Daniel Dewar and Grégory Gicquel Cultivate Connections Between Sculpture, Nature, and Craft

May 6, 2024

Kate Mothes

a wooden bas relief in oak of a knit sweater

“Oak relief with garter stitch pull-over” (2024), oak, 115 x 115 x 9 centimeters. All images © Daniel Dewar and Grégory Gicquel, courtesy of Antenna Space, shared with permission

The term “spoke” has traditionally referred to a piece of split log, like those used as supports in a wagon wheel. Traditional basket-making techniques draw on that same concept by weaving flexible material through a stronger framework. For French artistic duo Daniel Dewar and Grégory Gicquel, notions of interlaced strands, patterns, ecosystems, and vessels shape their solo exhibition, The Weaver and the Spoke, at Antenna Space in Shanghai.

Permaculture, a land management approach geared toward working with, rather than against nature, suffuses Dewar and Gicquel’s work, which often depicts animals and habitats coexisting alongside interspersed human-made elements. The chart-like quilts take cues from folk art or early natural history illustrations, where flora and fauna intermingle with items the artists employ in their studio, like thread and sewing machines. Knitted sweaters, woven loafers, and snail shells continue their interest in repetition, receptacles, and protective layers.

Dewar and Gicquel toy with the distinctions between art and function. The traditional purpose of quilts as bed coverings complements sculptures that double as storage, like in “Oak cabinet with woven loafer shoe and leg.” Hats and shoes nod to the garment industry, making a lighthearted comparison between textile’s pliable role throughout fine art, craft, apparel, and decorative arts.

The Weaver and the Spoke continues through May 11. See more on the artists’ Instagram.

 

a quilt with patterns of flowers, grasshoppers, plants, a spool of thread, and worms on a light blue background

“Embroidered quilt with common flax plant, sticky flax plant, narrow-leaved flax plant, mottled grasshopper, meadow grasshopper, Moroccan grasshopper and bobbin” (2024), cotton and polyester thread on linen fabric, cotton batting, 168 x 140 centimeters

an oak bench carved with snail shells with a quilted cushion containing patterns of bugs and flowers

“Oak bench with white-tailed bumblebees, mallow flowers, dandelion flowers and snails” (2024), embroidery on cushion and oak, 60 x 146 x 66 centimeters

two side-by-side images of a sculptural oak cabinet with baskets around the sides and a foot on top with a woven loafer

“Oak cabinet with woven loafer shoe and leg” (2024), oak, 155 x 65 x 56 centimeters

a green quilt with an array of lettuces, insects, worms, sewing machines, and other creatures

“Embroidered quilt with earthworms, cockchafer beetle larvae, dandelion plants, Brussels sprout plants, pe-tsaï cabbage plants, kohlrabi cabbage plants, striped shield bug, green bottle flies, cabbage white butterfly caterpillars, cauliflower cabbage plants, savoy cabbage plants, white-tailed bumblebee, cabbage white butterflies, ladybird beetle, red-tailed bumblebee, honey bee, sewing machine and overlocker machine” (2024), cotton and polyester thread on linen fabric, cotton batting, 194 x 248.5 centimeters

an oak cabinet with eggplants and an abstracted human torso on top

“Oak cabinet with courgettes and body fragments” (2024), oak, 155 x 89 x 70 centimeters

a green quilt with a pattern of flowers, worms, plants, insects, and a clarinet

“Embroidered quilt with earthworms, cockchafer beetle larvae, false barley grass, red fescue grass, poppy plants, meadow fescue grass, English ryegrass, cinnabar moth caterpillar, giant peacock moth caterpillar, hebe tiger moth, death’s-head hawkmoth caterpillar, magpie moth, giant peacock moth, death’s-head hawkmoth, cinnabar moth, sparrow and recorder” (2024), cotton and polyester thread on linen fabric, cotton batting, 166.5 x 210 centimeters

a quilt on a neutral background with plants, worms, insects, two hats, and a shoe

“Embroidered quilt with earthworms, dandelion plant, clover plants, pea plant, beetroot plants, swallowtail butterfly caterpillar, 22 punctata beetle, ladybird beetle, honey bee, red-tailed bumblebee, white-tailed bumblebee, swallowtail butterfly, Parnassius apollo butterfly, Parnassius apollo butterfly caterpillar, desert cap, cap and work shoe” (2024), cotton and polyester thread on linen fabric, cotton batting, 166.5 x 194.5 centimeters

 

 



Craft

Althea Crome’s Miniature Sweaters Test the Limits of Traditional Knitting

May 6, 2024

Jackie Andres

a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Gerard David's "The Nativity with Donors and Saints Jerome and Leonard."

“Nativity II.” All images © Althea Crome, shared with permission

Have you ever sent a knit sweater through a dryer cycle and returned to find it a fraction of the size it once was? Well, think even smaller. Althea Crome’s incredibly detailed miniature sweaters didn’t shrink in a dryer but were instead created stitch by stitch with scrupulous dexterity over hundreds of hours.

The Indiana-based fiber artist began knitting in college and refined her skills by frequenting knitting shops. Crome was eager to learn new methods, and like many who are part of knitting communities, the artist was happily welcomed with advice, knowledge, and guidance. Mastering one technique meant moving onto another, and when it came to constantly challenging herself, Crome always rose to the occasion.

As time went on, she eventually found herself in the throes of micro-knitting. For Crome, there was something particularly stimulating and liberating about knitting small. Designing tiny garments and being able to knit them relatively quickly provided instant gratification. As she continued to create increasingly small and detailed pieces, her practice began to evolve.

 

a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Van Gogh's "Starry Night"

“Starry Night”

In comparison to the average knit sweater that holds about four to eight stitches per inch, Crome has achieved a gauge of more than 80 stitches per inch, meticulously entwining extremely fine silk in different hues. For “Nativity II,” the artist blended over 70 individual colors of thread to achieve detailed shading effects.

Crome is inspired by iconic works such as Van Gogh’s “Starry Night,” ancient Greek amphoras, and Warhol’s soup cans. Before starting each miniature garment, she first designs her own pattern, then she works underneath a high-powered magnifier, using minuscule knitting needles that she made herself from high-tensile-strength surgical steel.

“We’re always looking at other people’s art, trying to understand it,” Crome says. “Taking those images and working with a different medium, I just want to dig in further than my eyes. I want to dig in with my hands.” This way, the artist feels closer to the works that influence her, contemplating ideas for some time before testing new skills and bridging the gap between conceptual ideas and physical manifestation.

Find more of Crome’s work on her website. (via Kottke)

 

detail of a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Van Gogh's "Starry Night"

“Starry Night”

a miniature knit sweater in the shape of an Ancient Greek amphora

“Ancient Greek Amphora I”

a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Picasso

“Picasso, Woman in a Yellow Hat”

a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Warhol's soup cans

“Pop Art Cardigan”

a miniature knit cardigan inspired by Gerard David's "The Nativity with Donors and Saints Jerome and Leonard."

“Nativity II”

three miniature knit sweaters worn on three fingers to show scale

“Sheep Farm” series

Process photo of sewing miniature knitting

 

 

 



Art Craft

Puppy Dog Eyes and Playful Paws: Misato Sano’s Wooden Sculptures Capture Canine Attitude

May 6, 2024

Kate Mothes

a profile view of a carved wooden poodle sculpture

Photos by Maki Indo. All images © Misato Sano, shared with permission

From pudgy pugs to a precisely groomed poodle to a deliriously happy Shiba Inu, Misato Sano’s waggish pups emerge from single blocks of wood. The artist (previously) chisels expectant eyes and goofy grins, revealing individual personalities that showcase each breed’s distinctive look and attitude.

Misato views our canine companions as mirrors of our own personalities, and she began making these sculptures as reflections of her own thoughts and emotions, from excitement to worry to longing. Each portrayal channels myriad ways dogs can be free and open in their expressions of devotion, passion, and play.

Her solo exhibition will open this October at Cyg Gallery in Morioka City, Iwate, Japan. Find more on the artist’s website and Instagram.

 

a playful shiba inu dog carved out of wood

a collection of five quirky wooden sculptures of dogs

a carved wooden sculpture of a Shih Tzu in a woodworking studio  a wooden sculpture of an abstracted white dog with large paws

a wooden sculpture of a gray terrier with very long snout fur

a whimsical wooden sculpture of a pug with large, bulky muscles

a playful wooden sculpture of a chihuahua-type dog baring its teeth

a wooden sculpture of a brown French bulldog